SUP Rome 2020
The 6TH annual SUP Rome event, 4 October 2020
The Colosseum, Rome
I’ve had my eye on the SUP Rome event for a few years now, but for one reason or another I haven’t been able to do it. Yet the idea of stand up paddle boarding through the centre of Rome, on the River Tiber turned out to be such an epic experience that I can see it becoming an annual event on my calendar.
Usually held on 1 May each year, this year's event was put back to 4 October because of COVID.
I contacted the organiser Roberto in advance, but I wasn't able to commit to taking part until after 17.00 on Thursday 1 October. The time at which the UK government announced which countries would be added to the COVID quarantine list. I suspect it was a close call, but Italy escaped addition.
Booked my ticket to SUP Rome. Booked my flights and accommodation and I was on my way!
Arriving in Rome early on Saturday morning, I took the opportunity to do some tourist stuff. I’ve visited Rome once before, about 20 years ago, but on that occasion I didn’t visit the Colosseum, perhaps one of the most famous Ancient Roman landmarks. This was my day to put that right. And what a perfect day it was too. The Colosseum was completely deserted. No queues at all.
John at the Colosseum
The SUP Rome participants met on Sunday morning at 09.30, at the corner of Marconi Bridge and Lungo Tevere Dante. Everyone was so welcoming and friendly and Matteo and Thommaso from LOVE SUP sorted me out with a 10'8 hire board, pump, leash and paddle. Roberto would supply me with the compulsory helmet and PFD. Compulsory as we would be paddling through rapids and white water!! Eeeek!
I took with me my own quick release belt.
I have to say everyone I spoke to was extremely welcoming and friendly and we all had a laugh as the bus set off from Ponte Marconi about an hour late. 'Italian time' I was told.
As the bus passed over Ponte Garibaldi, Roberto pointed out the rapids on the right. I tried to look excited rather than scared - but I'm not sure I succeeded!
The starting point for this trip was towards the north of the city, just downstream of the Music Bridge, Ponte della Musica. This wasn't just a SUP event. There were one person and multi person kayaks and canoes and inflatable boats all set for the trip downstream. We even had a river police escort for the whole journey.
The water was moving quickly for most our journey. I would suggest this is a paddle for intermediate and above paddlers rather than beginners.
The weather was mixed. It was almost cold in the morning which prompted me to wear a long sleeve thermal rash vest underneath my farmer john style wetsuit. Later the sun came out strongly before a brief shower of rain and more sunshine. We spent parts of the day battling into strong and gusting headwinds.
First stop was at Castel Sant'Angelo, where we were greeted by live music and well-wishers on the bank. The Castel has stood here for almost 2000 years, as has the bridge of the same name; both constructed by the emperor Hadrian (of Hadrian's Wall fame). On the skyline, we could see Saint Peter's Basilica and the Vatican City. In many respects. Rome was the birthplace of what we know as Western Civilisation, and it was awe-inspiring to see this history from the water.
Moving downstream, we arrived at Isola Tiberina (Tiber Island), a small island in the middle of the river and the site of the dreaded rapids. Andrea decided they would be too tough for most of us to traverse and, although I was disappointed, by the time I actually saw the rapids just downstream of Ponte Garibaldi, I knew he was right. It was well and truly beyond my level. I did attempt the second set of rapids at Ponte Fabricio, which is where I fell in!
I had more luck at the third set of rapids, underneath the famous sole remaining arch of Ponte Emilio, where we paused for photographs. Ponte Emilio, or, to give it its Latin name, Pons Aemilius, is the oldest bridge in Rome, the stone bridge being built in the second century BCE to replace an even earlier wooden structure.
I do enjoy river sup, and this experience with the rapids made me realise I was to do more white-water paddling in the future.
As we moved further south, and away from the city centre, we experienced the worst of the headwinds; at one time a strong gust almost blew me off my board. There was even some more white-water to contend with. But the fast-flowing water aided our journey and, in what seemed like no time at all, we were paddling under Ponte Marconi, and the finishing line was in sight. It was a little after 16.00, and we had travelled around 10km. But there was to be one more challenge before our journey was at an end.
Our egress from the Tiber involved climbing up a very steep bank, with boards, paddles and equipment. I was very grateful to everyone who helped me up the bank, and especially grateful to whoever supplied the rope we used to drag ourselves and our gear up.
At the top of the bank was an urban beach with people playing volleyball in the unexpected late afternoon sunshine and relaxing on sun loungers. Good news - there was even a bar! Bad news - it was closed! Roberto told me the bar should have been open, but, after the morning rain, no one anticipated nice weather in the afternoon.
I said my thank-yous and my goodbyes to the amazing crew I had paddled with and returned to my accommodation.
(Via a bar that was open, of course. I deserved that beer!)
The people I met, the iconic and historic location, as well as the exciting river ride combined to leave me with a warm feeling all over. Certainly one of my most epic SUP trips to date.
I will definitely SUP Rome again - I hope it will be in 2021!
