SUP Montenegro

Rijeka Crnojevica

Throughout my SUP the Balkans 2018 adventure, I had various unusual, bizarre and unfortunate car incidents.

I certainly had an interesting journey on the route from Albania to go stand-up paddle boarding in Montenegro. Just after passing through border control, a large black BMW saloon came up behind me, driving close and flashing his headlights. I slowed down to allow him to pass, but the car continued to slow down, repeatedly flashing me.

‘Is this some kind of road rage incident?’ I wondered nervously.

I slowed some more, prompting the driver to pull out and overtake me. As the car drew alongside, the passenger window went down, a man leant over and began using his hand in a light-flashing gesture.

What did it mean? A problem with my indicator?

The BMW continued to drive alongside me with the passenger gesturing for me to pull over into a lay-by. I took a chance and pulled over, but I did harbour some concerns for my safety. Who were these people? Police? Someone I had unknowingly upset? Robbers? My heart was pounding as the driver got out of the vehicle and walked towards me. I locked my doors from the inside as I lowered my window part-way.

‘Do you speak English?’ he asked in accented English.

‘Yes,’ I responded.

He proceeded to explain that, in Montenegro, it was mandatory to drive with your headlights on, even during daylight. The hand gestures and flashing lights suddenly made sense.

‘You will have to pay a fine if the police stop you,’ he warned with a grimace.

I thanked him profusely for telling me, switched on my lights, and moved off as the BMW sped away into the distance.

Half a mile further down the road I saw the BMW again. Stopped at the side of the road, with a police vehicle parked immediately behind. I think he had been stopped for speeding.

The road down the mountainside to Rijeka Crnojevica was one narrow hairpin bend or sharp turn after another. Luckily, I only encountered one vehicle coming in the opposite direction.

It was here that I first caught a glimpse of the magnificent river, as it meanders its way through the valley and on toward the Lake Skadar National Park.

Rijeka Crnojevika

Arriving in the town of Rijeka Crnojevica, I drove over the town’s renowned triple-arched, nineteenth-century bridge and immediately found a convenient spot to park up and inflate my SUP board.

Rijeka Crnojevica Bridge

A trip down river and back again didn’t disappoint. Especially passing under the bridge on the way back. After my exertions on the River Buna the previous day and my exhausting walk along the beach at Velipoje, I was glad for a shorter paddle today on flat, barely moving water.

The town itself is really no more than a rural village.; I was surprised to learn that it had once been the capital of Montenegro.

The town was very quiet and rather run-down, to be honest, with a number of derelict and dilapidated buildings. In many parts of the world, a spectacular locale like this would attract tourists from far and wide, with associated bars and restaurants springing up to feed and water the hordes.

Although I felt a pang of disappointment, not to mention a pang of hunger, that there was nowhere open to eat when I was there and some disappointment that the town seemed to need a facelift, on balance I was pleased not to have to compete with other visitors. Perhaps this picturesque part of the world is simply too far away? Perhaps other places in Montenegro are better known? Perhaps the narrow road down to the town is an obstacle? Or perhaps everything was simply so quiet because November is off-season?

Rijeka Crnojevica

Once again I felt the pressure of time. I had a long drive ahead of me, back into Albania and on to Macedonia. Not for the first time, I felt that I was sprinting through life rather than taking time out to enjoy some of the wonderful places I have been fortunate to visit. But, of course, that is the trade-off - If I spent more time here, I wouldn’t have time to visit the other places. So many exciting parts of the world are still to come and there is never enough time. Next time I visit Montenegro I would love to paddle all the way to Lake Skadar and back again. If you are looking for somewhere unique to stand up paddle in Montenegro, have a look at Rijeka Crnojevica.

I jumped back into my car, turned the key, and set off (not forgetting to switch on my headlights of course!).