Stand-up Paddleboarding in Liechtenstein
Stausee Steg, Liechtenstein.
I often reflect on how random life can be. 2022 saw record-low rainfall in many parts of Europe. News items depicted rivers running on empty; mighty rivers reduced to a trickle. Even at the best of times, I didn’t expect to find much water to paddle on in the tiny European country of Liechtenstein.
By area, Liechtenstein is the sixth smallest country in the world, and I was happy to see that the River Rhine forms the border between Switzerland and Liechtenstein as it bypasses the capital city of Vaduz. Photographs suggested it was a perfect place to paddle. But would there be enough water? Before I set off for Munich and my base in Bavaria, I emailed the Tourist Information Office in Vaduz and was surprised to learn that stand-up paddleboarding isn’t allowed on the Rhine due to the dangers of fast-moving water. I find it frustrating that some places prefer to ban SUP outright rather than offer safety advice. However, Nicole from Tourist Information did have a very helpful alternative suggestion. The small mountain lake at Ganglesee.
That was how I found myself on an overcast and rainy September day, driving up a steep mountainside road, breathing in sharply each time I rounded a narrow hairpin bend. And then suddenly I was out of the clouds; the majestic mountainscape was all around me.
And then I was at Gangelsee. At least I thought I was. A short walk from the car park took me to the water’s edge; water of deep blue and emerald green with a backdrop of mist-covered mountains and a small waterfall at one end of the narrow lake. Several fishermen sat at the other end, so I decided to give them a generous berth.
A duck house on Stausee Steg, Liechtenstein
I was intrigued by a small wooden duck house in the middle of the lake as I completed a few laps.
It was only after I left the water that I looked at the map on my phone and realised that I had been paddling on Stausee Steg. Ganglesee was next door and even smaller. I did wonder if SUP was actually allowed on Stausee Steg, or was it a fishing lake? I never found out.
Driving back down from the mountains, I even caught a glimpse of the Rhine. It didn’t seem at all dangerous.
As well as being one of the smallest countries in the world, Liechtenstein also happens to be the wealthiest. Liechtenstein is classed as a Principality and is currently ruled by the 15th Prince, Hans-Adam II. Every year, on the birthday of this country, the Prince invites everyone round to his castle for free beer. Wouldn’t it be great if my visit coincided with the free-beer day?
And guess what?
The day I was there…
… was not that day. I would have to pay for my own beer.
But that didn’t spoil my short visit to this tiny gem of a country.
Vaduz Castle, home of the Prince of Liechtenstein
Vaduz Castle
John McFadzean September 2022.
