Stand-up Paddleboarding at Trakai Castle, Lithuania

Not for the first time, the wind had other ideas.

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If you’re going to stand-up paddle anywhere in Lithuania, it really has to be Lake Galvė, home to the unmistakable Trakai Castle. Trakai Castle stands on an island in the lake, and is one of the most photographed locations in Lithuania. Conveniently for me, the castle is situated close to the route I intended to take from Riga, Latvia to Warsaw in Poland in June 2019.

Built in the 14th Century, of orange-brown brick in a fairy-tale style, with cone-topped turrets, Trakai Castle was extensively renovated ,and rebuilt almost entirely in the 20th Century.

Arriving at Kempingas Slėnyje late afternoon, I immediately pitched my tiny tent and headed to the lake. I was looking forward to a gentle paddle out across the lake for the obligatory SUP photo with the castle as a backdrop. Sadly, the wind had other ideas! But I didn’t know that at first.

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Redpaddle 11’0 Sport next to my tiny tent

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Lake Galvė

On the shore of the lake, just a few minutes’ walk from my tent, lay a sheltered bay with a wooden jetty, one small sailing boat tied up alongside. A perfect launch spot. I headed clockwise around the lake until the wind hit me! It was a straight run across the lake to the castle with the wind at my back. An easy run, except for one tiny problem. As I paddled further into the middle of the lake, I realised that the wind and the waves were moving in different directions to each other. It was tough to stay on board with the wind behind me and the waves smashing over my board from the right-hand side. I was delighted to reach the island upon which the castle stands and find some shelter. I could see, on the other side of the island, a multitude of sailing boats, their multi-coloured sails filled by the wind. When you can see sailing boats, it’s probably not the best weather for SUP. Wind is the enemy of stand-up paddleboarding. I was grateful for the wind-assisted outward trip, but I knew I would have to paddle back into the wind to return to camp. Either that or get off the lake completely and find another way home. I always like to have a Plan B, and sometimes a Plan C. Just in case. Plan B was to walk back carrying my board. Plan C was to roll my board up and get a taxi. I could see a few cafes and restaurants on the shore near Trakai Island, so I was confident I would find a solution.

The wind and water conditions made it harder to get some suitable photos of my board and/or myself with the castle in the background. But of course I persevered. I hope you enjoy the fruits of my labour.

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Trakai Castle, Lithuania.

Paddling round the island, I somehow ran into a field of dense underwater plant life near the bridge. It took five minutes of frantically paddling backwards to disentangle my fin, then I was on my way. I could see another small island between me and my destination, so I used that as a wind shelter. But once I passed the second island, I was heavily exposed to the strong headwind. More than once I contemplated turning round and letting the wind take me back to the cafes and restaurants. Plan C was greatly tempting.

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Trakai Castle

But no! I resorted to the tried and tested technique of taking it one paddle stroke at a time. One after the other. One, two, one, two until I returned to my starting point. I wasn’t going to let the wind beat me again on this trip. And sure enough, as I approached the western shore of the lake, I found shelter again, and I hauled my SUP board up onto the jetty with a sense of satisfaction at a good workout well done.

I went back to Trakai Castle the following morning for some more photographs and a bite to eat in one of the lakeside eateries.

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